"No beer at all here." A Belarusian IT specialist in Saudi Arabia is doing great - but there's a price

Rostislav Myasnikov is a resource and project manager at a large IT company with Belarusian roots. After the events of 2020-2022, he managed a large distributed team from Georgia and Greece. In 2024, when the era of remote managers came to an end, he accepted a job at a new regional office and moved to Saudi Arabia. He lives and works in the city of Al Khobar on the Persian Gulf, managing AI projects.

Relocation. "Where? Saudi Arabia? A wonderful country! In fact, I knew nothing about it."

— In 2024, the company decided to open an office in Saudi Arabia. When they told me about it and offered me this option, I asked: "Where? Saudi Arabia? A wonderful country!" In fact, I knew almost nothing about Saudi Arabia.

And somehow, among colleagues, a rumor spread that I was a Muslim, that I had Tatar roots. I do indeed have Tatar roots, my mother is Tatar, but I am not even close to being a Muslim. However, I didn't argue with that. And I agreed to go there. The preparation took quite a long time; I had to collect documents and get an apostille, and undergo a medical examination (which is a requirement for Saudis). I did all this, got a visa, and then waited three more months for company approval with it.

And in May 2024, I arrived in Saudi Arabia.

Before moving, I had already worked remotely with the Saudi office for about a year. In a similar vein — hiring people, dealing with adaptation, and providing moral support.

— Does the Saudi office primarily work with expats?

— We have plenty of Saudis too. Although there are enough expats.

— What of what you read or heard about this country before moving turned out to be true?

— I probably only knew that it is located on the Arabian Peninsula and that its capital is Riyadh. Later, I was surprised that when you tell people you're in Saudi Arabia, you often have to explain: "No, it's not Dubai. It's a completely different country. Dubai is the Emirates, and this is Saudi Arabia."

What I am truly familiar with is Islam, but not as a religious person, rather as an educated person. On my mother's side, my family is Tatar (I was even born in the city of Volzhsk, Mari El Republic, near Tatarstan). They are Muslims, and my grandfather was deeply immersed in religion. Thanks to my grandfather and mother, I know something about Islam. When I got older, I became interested myself and read a lot on the topic. And I've known the meaning of words like "insha'Allah," "mashallah" [what Allah willed] for quite a long time. Thanks to this, I even managed to surprise the locals. For example, when I used the phrase "al-Hamdu li-Llah!" [praise be to Allah!], they were impressed by how appropriately I used it.

Probably, that's where my knowledge was limited. Most of what I learned about the country, I discovered upon arrival.

The Country. "From one tap, hot water, from the other, very hot. Beer is impossible at all."

— About delicious food – it's absolutely true. Of course, they have their own specifics, but there is indeed a lot of food here, and it's delicious. These guys love meat. After Greece, whose cuisine was more of a struggle for me, here it's the complete opposite.

Павялічыць

And also, here I've tried, probably, all brands and types of non-alcoholic beer that exist in the world. All because there is no alcohol here at all. Nowhere, in no form can it be bought. If you want to drink, you have to get in a car and go to Bahrain. Or fly at least to Dubai or Qatar. It's there – it's not here, simply not at all. This comes as a huge revelation to many.

I've noticed that when you tell this to colleagues who are considering moving here, they start asking: "No beer at all?" — "At all." — "Well, okay, I need to think about whether I want this or not."

— Did you move with your family?

— Alone. Initially, the plan was that I would settle in, get things sorted here, and then bring my family over. But in the end, especially considering recent events around Iran (although nothing reaches Saudi Arabia), everything turned out differently. You see, my family is Ukrainian. In 2024, when I moved from Greece to Saudi Arabia, they even returned to Kyiv for a while and lived there, experiencing sorrow. And that's an experience they wouldn't want to repeat. So I don't even insist.

We have this kind of rotational life. I work here for fairly long periods, communicate with my family on Telegram, and we see each other during vacations. The children, of course, miss me very much and ask me to come back (the family is currently in Europe). I hope we will eventually find a more flexible and mobile option, but for now, it is what it is.

— How do you find the climate?

— Half the year here is a hot summer, and half the year is hell. The calendar summer, somewhere from May to September, and especially July and August here — it's terrible hell. Right now, as we speak, it's already evening, the sun is setting — and the thermometer shows +40°C. During the day, when the sun is blazing, it's better not to go out at all. Or at least not stay in open spaces for long, because getting heatstroke is a common occurrence.

Photo: Unsplash

— Hell even compared to the Peloponnese?

— Oh, come on, how much is it in Greece, +36°C — that's the maximum. At noon, of course, it's better to hide, but the rest of the time — it's perfectly normal.

— Can you drink tap water?

— If what I was told is true, the tap water here, as in the Emirates, is distilled seawater. It's purified from salt, quite clean, but it's still not recommended to drink. So, naturally, I buy bottled water.

Also, the tap water that flows here in summer has an amusing feature. From one tap, hot water flows, and from the other, very hot water. Boiling water – and hellishly boiling water. So in the morning, you have to shower very quickly before the water from the internal pipes, which cooled down overnight, drains away, and the boiling water from the hot reservoir outside starts flowing. The sun heats these huge tanks on the roofs very quickly.

In summer, there is simply no cold water from the tap. People who have water heaters at home use them in reverse: they fill them with water in the evening, it cools down overnight in the air-conditioned apartment, and for the day you have 40-50 liters of relatively cool water.

— What other nuances of Saudi life strongly contrast with the European lifestyle?

— The city of Al Khobar, where I live, is quite simple. And one of the peculiarities of life in Saudi Arabia is that many entertainments familiar to us, such as music and alcohol, are haram here, meaning forbidden. A person from our culture can get terribly bored, there's absolutely nothing to do. And when summer comes, during the day, even on a weekend, you can't really go out for a walk in 50-degree heat.

And you face the problem: what to do at all? I have a PlayStation — that's one way I cope. It's actually a difficult point to adapt to. I can't say that I've completely gotten used to it.

Photo: Unsplash

How to escape burnout in such conditions? The gym several times a week, because there's a pool, there are people, you can chat with the trainer and other guys in a closed, air-conditioned room. Sometimes I go there more for communication than for training.

However, fitness becomes a basic necessity precisely because here you are completely without movement all day. You either sit in your apartment under the air conditioning, or in the office under the air conditioning, or in the car under the air conditioning.

The air conditioner, by the way, runs continuously at my house, but I don't particularly worry about it. Especially after Greece with its astronomical electricity bills. Here, electricity costs pennies.

— Is this a safe country?

— Very. This is not just for a nice phrase or some advertisement: indeed, the level of security is phenomenal. You can forget your phone, wallet, a wad of money in a public place, and they will still be there a week later, no one will touch them. Or they will find them and return everything to you. I was recently on vacation, and when I arrived in Naples, I realized that I needed to learn to watch my belongings again.

But the locals drive like crazy, of course. Behind the wheel, they make obscene gestures through the glass, swearing at each other with "Bedouins" (here it's roughly like "kolkhozniks" in Belarus). But otherwise, these are very calm, unhurried people.

Павялічыць

They don't like to rush, that's true. In their understanding of time, what takes us a week or two takes them half a year. And what takes us half a year will stretch into a couple of years for them. This is especially acutely felt in business.

Women. "These are tables for male employees, these are for female employees."

— There are many stereotypes about how women live in Saudi Arabia. What of this is myth and what is reality?

— I readily hire and work with Saudi women. Today, our team includes a female designer and a female developer. Our local HR is also a woman. There was also another female developer who recently left for another Saudi company. All of this happened absolutely calmly, without any pressure: she, as a free person, wanted to change her track, she was offered a managerial position and a higher salary – so she left. There is also a business analyst who is currently finishing her studies and getting a master's degree. Overall, Saudi youth make me very happy: they are thoughtful, interesting, smart, and educated.

The only thing that's difficult to get used to right away is the niqab. It's a complex female head covering that leaves only the eyes visible. And sometimes you have to guess exactly who is in front of you, because the face is not visible at all.

— Does this dress code not apply to expat women?

— I would say that the dress code for expats does not differ from what is used in a hypothetical Belarus. Of course, overly revealing outfits are not welcome here — but they are also inappropriate in the Belarusian business environment. A normal business suit.

No one questions uncovered hair; girls are not required to cover their heads. Saudis are quite calm about this. However, perhaps the girls themselves would comment on this a little differently. Some of our colleagues who have arrived sometimes complain about receiving, let's say, intrusive attention — usually limited to shouts from car windows.

Павялічыць

However, by far not all Saudi women, even if they are married, wear the full traditional costume that covers absolutely everything. Many dress more freely, lighter, and simpler. Sometimes you can meet women with bare arms, an uncovered face, or an exposed calf. Although this is perceived somewhat like a bare ankle in Puritan England.

Another important factor to consider is the historical separation of men and women, this segregation. When you enter a cafe, you see that girls sit separately, men separately.

If a man and a woman are in the same company, they are definitely husband and wife. It's almost impossible to enter and find a mixed group of friends.

From early childhood, they grow up separately: boys with boys, girls with girls. And this has become so ingrained as a cultural habit that it stays with them forever. Even those who studied in the USA or Europe, returning here, will spend time in single-sex groups.

— Does this somehow affect the organization of workplaces in IT companies? Are there separate areas for male and female employees?

— Yes, initially our office was organized that way: these are tables for male employees, these are for female employees. True, it's quite empty now, many work remotely. But if there's a production necessity, everyone works together. In principle, everything is okay, there's no big problem with it.

The Industry. "IT is now a super-trendy profession in Saudi Arabia."

— How are things with the language? Are you learning Arabic or do you manage with English?

— I tried to learn Arabic, but I can't find a good teacher. Either it's expensive (300 riyals [about $80] per hour of lessons), or the quality is so-so. Many Saudis don't know English particularly well, but these are usually taxi drivers and people without higher education. In the IT environment, it's different. Even before 2018 (before the country opened up to the world), Saudis tried their best to send their children to study in Europe, the USA, or cheaper countries like Malaysia and the Philippines. There they learn in English, so IT specialists generally speak excellent English.

— What's the situation with internet and communication in Saudi Arabia?

— Telegram works fine. You can't make calls on WhatsApp, but it works perfectly as a chat, and everyone actively uses it here.

At EPAM, we freely use corporate tools like Microsoft Teams; everything works stably. I don't particularly need a VPN here, because most sites where you can watch movies or TV series are open without restrictions (unlike some European countries). Perhaps sometimes a VPN is needed for work, for security purposes.

— You manage your projects using Agile methodology and build self-organizing engineering teams. How do these Western approaches combine with traditional Saudi business culture? Do they conflict with each other?

— I would say, on the contrary. Our Saudis like working with us because they feel a qualitative difference. After all, IT here has never been an industry that, like once in Belarus, was buzzing, booming, and developing. For Saudi Arabia, it's more of a trend of the last few years. Construction — yes. Oil production — yes. But IT has always been something purely auxiliary. It's clear that the engineering culture that exists at EPAM far surpasses what the local people encountered before. And for us, Scrum and other Agile methodologies have long been standard. We don't even think about it; it's experience that has become ingrained.

Photo: Unsplash

— How prestigious are IT professions among locals in general? Who goes to study these specialties?

— There's a stereotype that all Saudis are very rich. In reality, for many of them, work is a necessity. Yes, their average income in dollars can often be higher than that of Europeans. But they need to work, because they might not have any other money in their family besides their salary. If they grow up and decide to start a business, they can receive tremendous support from the state. But to say that everyone here is born with a suitcase full of money... That's certainly not true.

IT is now perceived in Saudi Arabia as a super-trendy, fashionable profession. This is directly related to the Saudi Vision 2030 program, announced by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman. And almost the cornerstone of this program is AI technologies and Saudi artificial intelligence. That's why they have, for example, the company Humain, which is involved in creating physical data centers and developing AI-based software.

There are companies that create software for "smart cities," tracking traffic, jams, taxis...

No one doubts that IT is cool. There are engineers here who come from very wealthy, progressive families. I know a developer whose cousins and uncles hold positions at the level of ministers and deputy ministers.

Culture. "During Ramadan, all employers are required to limit the workday to six hours."

— How much do the norms of people's behavior in Saudi Arabia differ from what we are used to? And how difficult was it for you to get accustomed to it?

— Their attitude towards the future is certainly striking. There's a common belief: if you're told "insha'Allah" [if Allah wills it] in the Arab world, then that's it, forget it, nothing will be done. In reality, that's not true. If you, for example, say: "Okay, goodbye, see you tomorrow at 9 in the office," you understand that it will happen. But a Saudi will answer: "Insha'Allah." This is so deeply embedded in their daily life that they are obliged to say it about everything concerning the future. At first, of course, it's startling: why say it every time? But that's how tightly it's woven into their lives.

Or, for example, a Saudi gets into a car and before starting it, says: "Bismillah!" [In the name of Allah!]. And only then turns the key. When you see this for the first time, you think: what happened? Why is this important to them? It's important because they truly treat their religion, Islam, with great reverence.

Павялічыць

This is especially evident during the month of Ramadan. In essence, it's the same fast as in other religions. But while few of us strictly fast, for them it's a whole month of serious trials. During this time, all day, while the sun shines, they cannot eat or drink anything. This is approximately 12 hours, after which they can sit down and eat. In Saudi Arabia, this is not just a tradition; it is enshrined at the legislative level. This affects us in the sense that during Ramadan, all employers are obliged to limit the workday to six hours. Because it's hard to not eat, not drink, and work all day.

— Do visitors have to follow these norms?

— In this regard, locals are divided into two groups. Some say: "It's hard for me to watch you eat and drink water. So, please, either do it where I can't see, or don't eat or drink at all." And there are more progressive ones who reason: "Listen, it's my choice to fast. And I have no right to demand another person do something that is not their religious obligation."

Because generally, to press another person and demand from them what they should not do is haram. And during Ramadan, it's simply a tenfold haram.

Павялічыць

You do encounter people who might make a remark, but it's rare. On the other hand, we ourselves try to treat it with respect. Knowing that a person hasn't eaten or drunk water all day (it seems to me, in such a climate, that's even harder than not eating), you simply try not to provoke them.

Nostalgia. "After all my wanderings, I can honestly say: I felt most comfortable in Belarus."

— You've been in IT for two decades now. And during this time, you've worked in Belarus, Thailand, Greece, and Saudi Arabia. Where did you feel most at home?

— After all my wanderings, I can honestly say: I felt most comfortable in Belarus. More comfortable than there, I have never been.

— What does your legalization in Saudi Arabia look like?

— I currently have a temporary residence permit, which is directly linked to my employment contract; it's called an iqama. There is also a so-called premium iqama — a status that allows you to live and work in the country without being tied to a specific employer. But to obtain it, you need to be a valuable specialist and have lived in Saudi Arabia for five years.

Павялічыць

Becoming a Saudi subject is also theoretically possible – if you are Cristiano Ronaldo, a doctor of science, connected with some in-demand technologies, or a unique, very valuable specialist. These are isolated cases across the entire country. I have Jordanian acquaintances who literally grew up here and lived their whole lives. And yet, like me, they live with ordinary iqamas, and there's no chance for even their children to obtain full citizenship. God forbid anything happens – and that's it, pack your bags and go to Jordan.

— Do you not plan to return?

— The problem is very simple: there's just no work of my profile for me there right now. If I return, the question will immediately arise: how will I earn a living?

My current job requires so-called on-site presence. There are people who dream: "I want to work for Saudi Arabia, but remotely." Developers, for example, can do that. But managers, especially project managers who communicate directly with clients, have to be here physically to see the client in person.

This is a key feature of working not only with Saudis but with the Arab world in general. They perceive a person better when they see them in person, shake their hand, drink coffee with them, and talk face-to-face.

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